Sustainable Foods
Growing a new Tradition

Story by Caitlin Switzer and Samantha Tisdel Wright

THEY EMERGE like daffodils after a spring rain, identifiable by their willingness to bring the car to a screeching halt at the first sign of wild asparagus, or their willingness to drive twenty minutes out of their way in search of a promising new market. Self-proclaimed "foodies," they can be found in ever-increasing numbers on Colorado's Western Slope.

After all, exciting gastronomic options abound here. With offerings ranging from fresh goat cheese and locally raised poultry and beef to more exotic fare (yak meat, anyone?), local health food stores and farmers’ markets are providing a wealth of opportunities for health-conscious eating.

Delta hosts two farmers' markets—one on Tuesday and Saturday mornings in the parking lot at Fourth and Meeker Streets, as well as a new Main Street Market featuring live music, local growers, crafters and vendors every Wednesday afternoon beginning July 20.  "Our goal is to become something that really highlights local producers of every kind," said Delta Chamber of Commerce Business Enhancement Coordinator Brian Cambria.

The Montrose Farmers' Market, now in its twenty-ninth year, will relocate temporarily to South First Street this season. The market features twenty to twenty-five vendors, and operates on Saturdays, 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., from May 7 through the end of October, and Wednesdays, same hours, from mid-July on.

In Grand Junction, the farmers’ market takes place on Main Street from 5:30 to 8:30 on Thursday evenings, with four blocks of fresh food, activities and family entertainment.

Typical of today's innovative, health-conscious local farmers is Guy Borden of Delta, an organic grower who sells at markets in Telluride, Ridgway, Carbondale, Gunnison and Edwards. "I think the single biggest thing [about farmers' markets] is that you get fresh food that's not three weeks old," Borden said. "The nutritional value in food tends to go down very quickly once it has been harvested. The word is getting around that fresher is definitely better."

Another bonus for those who frequent farmers markets is the availability of otherwise hard-to-find items, he said. "Especially at the Ridgway market, you see things that you would never see at Wal-Mart. Things like unusual heirloom tomatoes or purple carrots."

The area's rich agricultural history is a legacy that newcomers and visitors might not be aware of, according to former Ridgway Market board member and confirmed "foodie" Jane Bennett. "At one time, there were high altitude wheat fields all over the mesa tops," Bennett explained. "There was a flour mill in Ridgway,  on the river. Very soon after the mines started in the mid 1870s, people went into agriculture to supply the mines. By 1884, there was a lot of talk in the old newspapers about what an up-and-coming beef industry we had here."

Today's Western Slope farms continue that growing tradition. "Independent farmers give us better tasting food with higher nutritional value," Bennett said. 'Of course, taste is what persuades most people."

ON THE DURANGO SIDE...

The Animas River Valley near Durango also has an abundant agricultural tradition. Sample the bounty of this verdant valley at the Durango Farmers' Market, running from mid-June through mid-October, on Saturday mornings from 8 a.m. to noon in the First National Bank parking lot (right across the street from the Post Office on 8th Street).

Further to the south and just across the New Mexico border, try out the Aztec Farmers' Market, Wednesdays from 4 to 7 p.m. at the Westside Plaza on 1409 W. Aztec Blvd.; the Bloomfield Farmers' Market at Salmon Park (corner of Sycamore & 5th), Thursdays, 4:30 to 6 p.m.; and Farmington Farmers' Market, Saturdays, 8 to 11 a.m., and Tuesdays, 4:30 to 6:30 p.m., at Animas Park off Browning Parkway. All three of these south-of-the-border markets run from July through October.

Even if you can't make it on market day, there are plenty of places where you can sample the lively and diverse sustainable foods' culture of the area, starting with Durango Natural Foods. This venerable member-owned co-operative got its start in 1973, operating out of a rented back room on an all-volunteer basis with an unlocked, red fishing tackle box as its cash register. DNF has over the years grown into a full-fledged health food store and deli, located at 575 East 8th Ave. Members receive a slight discount and can take advantage of bulk case lot special orders.

At 1123 Camino Del Rio in Durango, Nature's Oasis is the largest health food store in southwestern Colorado. Owned and lovingly nurtured for over twelve years by Sherri and Jeff Watson who met while attending classes at Fort Lewis College, Nature's Oasis offers a huge selection of supplements, health and beauty products, organic produce, bulk foods, full line grocery, and an awesome deli and juice bar. With a sunny, spacious seating area, this is one of the best places in town to pick up a fast, delicious and healthy lunch.

For a truly unique experience, plan to be at Durango's Rocky Mountain Retreat/Turtle Lake Refuge at 848 East 3rd Ave., from 11:11 a.m. to 2:22 p.m. on a Tuesday or Friday, when Katrina Blair and friends serve a community lunch in the growing room. As you soak up the incredibly bright green color of the wheat grass growing on shelves all around you, sample amazing, homemade food creations that are made from organic, living (i.e. "raw" and "chi-charged") and often wild ingredients. "Local Wild Life" is a bi-weekly benefit lunch that specializes in locally grown, wild harvested, and living foods.  Turtle Lake Refuge taste sensations such as Tasty Turtle Rosehip Granola Bars, Phat Nettle Oaties, and Parsley Sunny Crackers can also be purchased locally at Nature's Oasis, Durango Natural Foods, and several other venues. All profits go toward promoting sustainable living practices and preserving open space.
 Stop by James Ranch on your way up Highway 550 towards Silverton to buy fresh eggs, veggies, and the kind of traditional beef your grandparents grew up eating— grass-finished and with no growth stimulants or antibiotics. Or, just stop to admire the beauty of this place with its red-rock cliffs, meandering river and lush pasturage. Once you get to Silverton, be sure to check out the eats at the Avalanche Café. Sip a cuppa joe roasted and brewed on the premises, and enjoy an eclectic, tempting array of treats from the deli case. This is also the place to pick up Silverton Chocolates. Treat yourself to a divine truffle made from organic and fair trade, single origin cacao from Costa Rica. (Doesn't get any better than that!) Saturdays in Silverton, stop by the parking lot next to the Cow Palace at 11th and Greene to sample Josh Galloway’s Silverton Organic Produce stall, featuring homemade goat cheese products, fresh-baked bread, fruits and veggies—all the goods for a perfect mountain picnic.

Photos  top to bottom

1, 2. Ridgway Farmers' Market: Bordon Ranch, Humane Society Booth.

3, 4. Courtesy Montrose Farmers' Market
 

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HIGH COUNTRY MAGAZINE 2005 
Published by San Juan Publishing Group, Inc., Colorado
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